Déjà vu,

Sep 12

As we expected the last month has been a bit boring retracing routes we have done before - the disadvantage of spending a second cruising season in the south.  We even considered sprinting for Agde to paint the hull and then up the Rhone in early Spring but dithered and decided against.

We met up with 'Merlot' (Paul and Kathy)at Castelsarassin and they followed us to the local Intermarché.

Damazan was a new stop, we had expected a 'night market' but the village square had been converted into a giant outdoor cafe - tubs of mussels and seafood plus lots of local wine - led astray by some of the bargees from Buzet it was a really good night. It must have been as Angie dropped a shoe into the canal on boarding - guess who had to recover it!

We got as far as Mas d'Agenais where we stayed for a few days for Angie to sunbathe before turning around.  We had passed most of our fellow Carcassonne Winterers but Sirius caught up at Mas.

Quo Vadis and Sirius

Tricia and Nigel were adopted by an African Grey parrot for a few days

Nigel looking enthused

Off east and we had to stop at La Fallote due to an Arret (blockage) - unfortunately there was a precious stone and fossil museum - so the 'free mooring' cost Peter a fortune as Angie added to her mineral collection plus 'just a little jasper pendant'.

La Falotte

The Arret was a Plane tree across the canal - allegedly dropped by a farmer who had been prevented from irrigating his fields.

The River Garonne was seriously low - though the Baise was navigable

Garonne - April

Garonne - August

At Serignac- 'Linda', 'Sirius' and 'Dunvegan' moored up and we had a drink. Steve on Dunvegan had tried to get up the Rhone in April but had given up due to the current so perhaps August next year will be the best. The resident hotel boat 'St Louis' was out and about - new maxim 'Hotel boats are always met at a bridge on a blind corner'

It is getting Autumnal with the trees changing colour and mist on the canal in the mornings - but the moment we put the Summer duvet on the bed the temperature shot back into the 30's.

Autumn is nigh

Angie was looking like an English sheepdog as her hairdresser has been on holiday - so a few days in Moissac to get her suitably shorn.

This is interfering with my sunbathing!

'Gladys' had to pay our Castelsarassin overnight fee as the Capitainerie was on Winter hours and shut (thanks Eric) - who dropped us in it - a Belgian boater who got upset at us rafting to 'Laura' is the primary suspect?

Then we pottered up the Montauban Embranchement to Lacourt St Pierre - electricity and water for €3 a night which is very reasonable. They are piling the canal sides and there are two dredgers at work which slowed us down a bit.

Peter won his weight loss bet so is now 20lbs lighter - can he keep it off - beer in the local cafe tonight ?? After a weekend of Rugby Internationals and boat cleaning it is off to Toulouse next.

Carcassonne to Toulouse Dry Dock

Jul 12

We stayed in Carcassonne for Bastille Day (our first dry one).  A few parades, a large produce market and all the shops had external stalls.  Peter talked Angie into buying some bright yellow short shorts A very good fireworks display over the old city that night.

Légion Etrangére

Alternative demo -  'No to Austerity'

Jackie's farewell gesture had been a bet with Peter regarding weight loss (Peter understandably having to lose double the amount) which will cramp his style for a few months.

We stopped at Le Segala again and the local bar - Peter didn't enjoy his Cola Lite while Angie quaffed beer. To her disgust the male barmen in the pubs always place the beer in front of Peter (especially as under the new regime Angie pays). Onwards along the Midi - the sunflowers are still magnificent.

At Villepinte we were rather stunned to find an old lady doing her washing in the canal at one of the old wash points - not sure how she has survived into her seventies.

à la manière traditionnelle

Then it was off at a slow pace to Castelnaudary where we stayed for 4 nights - partly for the annual night market and the jazzed up Rock band.

but we also gave Kes his biannual scrubdown

We are not amused!

At Montgiscard whilst sunbathing Angie was stung by a bee, her rapid rise off the roof topless must have been funny to watch (as a spectator). Then Toulouse where we met up with Merlot (Paul and Kathy) - we departed after a few days and got as far at the Port de Emboucherie where we suddenly lost most of our steering.

After an internal check of the rudder gear we found it had dropped 8 inches and was resting on the top bearing! Angie declined to go swimming (despite being an ex Army swimming Champ?) so we ran a rope around the bottom of the rudder and levered it up (knew that RIB would be useful).  Then limped back into St Saveur.  With the help of Paul's excellent French we managed to get into the VNF dry dock the next afternoon (minor miracle).

Rather than a major repair job, we found the rudder had lifted out of the bottom bush (the bottom curve of the rudder had lifted it out whilst reversing over something) so it was an easy task to lift it back in - but it was also a chance to check the prop/propshaft bearing, do some patch painting etc.

Then it was back into St Saveur for the night and then slightly poorer it was on Westwards.

Spanish Holiday

Jul 12

After mooring in Carcassonne, the next day we left the kids to babysit Kes and headed towards Spain.

Kes was stressed at our departure.

We headed down through the Pyrenees stopping at a little Spa village for morning tea (and to let Peter recover from Angie's driving).

Then up to Chateau Peyrepertuse, a Cathar castle last visited in the 90's (Peter had forgotten the climb up or might have bailed out).

A late lunch (assorted chicken and duck brochettes) in Millas, then it was on into Spain.  Peter had found a converted 13C Rectory in the hills outside Girona. Small (5 bedrooms), very beautiful, friendly helpful staff with whom we conversed in a mixture of French, English and our four words of Spanish. A swim and a cold beer or three, then a good Catalan meal..

We spent the next day in Barcelona - standard sightseeing - though Angie couldn't find anything to buy?

Barcelona Cathedral

Palau de Musica (Opera House)

Gaudi cathedral - under wraps

Getting out of Barcelona was a bit fraught, but the GPS proved its worth (only delivered us into an rundown housing estate once - when we missed a turn). Back to the Hotel for beer and an excellent Dinner and then the next day more sightseeing in Girona. But first into a small Industrial Estate to find Angie a little cast iron teapot (as used in the Hotel) - it must be love!

Girona waterfront

Girona cathedral - very tall and massive

Then it was a gentle drive back to Carcassonne where Jackie fed us a large Chinese meal, which was lovely but judging by our waistlines unneeded.  Kes didn't look too stressed.

A spoilt dog!

The next day we used the hire car to stock up with food and drink - then delivered Chris and Jackie to the Airport - before collapsing for a few hours. Next up Bastille Day.

Family Holiday

Jun 12

Chris and Jackie flew into Carcassonne and trained to Narbonne.  We found a central mooring but it was a tadge dusty/noisy as the centre is being renovated (Angie negotiated a 50% discount to Peter's surprise).

A lot of routine sightseeing followed and some shopping by the junior crew as all the Shop Sales were on.

Narbonne centre

Narbonne Cathedral

Bishops Palace

'Hullo sailor'

On the Monday we had planned a trip back to the coast but it was gusting up to 80 km/hr so we squatted for a further day.  The run North the next day was also windy, La Capitaine did a great job of the central ecluse (despite the weir) but then, much to her chagrin, managed to to hit both sides of a later lock entrance - the photo was impounded on the spot.

Narbonne central ecluse

Once the Via Domitia (and still built on)

We usually replenish any fenders damaged during the cruising season from those accidentally discarded by hire boats, but times had been lean in 2012 (the thought of buying some made Peter feel faint). However, the additional crew changed our luck and we picked up three good ones in a few days (now back in surplus).

We pottered off north to the River Aude junction which has an interesting weir and a silted up entrance to the Canal de Jonction.

River  l'Aude

Kes decided to elicit some attention by stepping on some broken glass, so some nursing and a sacrifice of Angie's oldest socks.

Gailhousty ecluse is quite impressive with large buildings and is now deep, as the second ecluse is used as a dry dock.

Tinpan (an old acquaintance) being made 'new' again

Our first stop on the Midi was Le Somail - busy as always, so after more ice creams (primary sustenance for the crew) we pushed on

Peter in Antipodean mode - it's hot, damned hot!

At Le Somail we met up with Jeremy Clarkson who had a Le Boat and we crossed paths/moorings several times over the next few days - his boat handling was OK, mooring selection poor and next time he berates cyclists - Chris has blackmailing photos!

It is stressful - but someone has to do it!

Angie was a bit distressed when a seagull took a young duckling and battered it to death on the rocks for dinner. We were encountering a lot of very late ducklings - not sure if they are 2nd attempt or confused ducks.

Kes and close friend (aka Jackie)

It was quite hot so we got both basking turtles and patches of sunflowers.

Given the number of Hire boats we were lucky with both ecluses and moorings - though we tried to do short runs mooring up in time for lunch each day. At Paraza we had an impromptu BBQ (no that isn't the towpath).

Paraza

At Trebes the crew took us out to Dinner in a converted Moulin at the ecluse.

'Garcon - mon vin s'il vous plait!'

The food at last - I was starving!

Then Carcassonne - where Chris and Jackie nursed Kes while we went for a short break in Spain (our first proper holiday for 3 years).